Historical References

A curated archive of historical sources, and literature related to the craft of fine hatmaking

Generations of hatmaking knowledge survive in the quiet corners of libraries, archives, old trade publications, defunct factories, and the wider reaches of the web. This curated collection brings together selected historical sources that have been digitized and made publicly available, each chosen for the curious note, technical detail, forgotten method, or useful fragment of context it may offer to those interested in the craft, especially fellow hatmakers.

Here you will find books, period manuals, trade catalogues, advertisements, patents, and other technical sources, presented with brief context, bibliographic details, and notes on their historical relevance. Together, they offer a window into the materials, methods, tools, and working language of hatmaking in earlier periods, particularly during the great age of the trade.

Please note that much of this material was written more than a century ago and predates modern standards of workshop safety, materials science, chemical handling, and occupational health. Bolatti Hat Co. does not endorse or recommend reproducing the instructions, processes, or material practices described in these sources. They are presented here as historical records of the techniques, assumptions, and working methods used by hatters of the past, and should be approached as such.

Books

Author: G. H. Woodrow
Year: 1905
Publisher: G. H. Woodrow & Company
Source: Library of Congress

A somewhat different trade manual, covering the handling, selling, cleaning, shaping, ironing, blocking, and renovating of hats. Written for the practical hat wearer, it blends workshop technique with retail advice and period explanations of silk, fur felt, Panama, straw, derby, and soft hats.

Author: Anonymous
Year: 1920
Publisher: The Hatters’ Supply House, Chicago, Illinois
Source: Library of Congress

A compact trade booklet from The Hatters’ Supply House of Chicago, offering a practical snapshot of early twentieth-century hat cleaning, blocking, finishing, trimming, and renovation methods across felt, straw, Panama, beaver, silk, and stiff hats.

Author: Henry L. Ermatinger
Year: 1919
Publisher: Roberts, Cushman & Co.
Source: Library of Congress (digitized by archive.org)

A classic trade manual, covering the finishing, cleaning, blocking, flanging, curling, trimming, and renovation of felt, straw, Panama, stiff, beaver, velour, and silk hats. Rich in workshop detail, it offers a rare look into the tools, vocabulary, and practical methods of the professional hat trade in the early twentieth century.

Author: David C. Mills
Year: 1911
Publisher: The Lee-McLachlan Company
Source: Library of Congress

An illustrated account of the Lee-McLachlan factory in Danbury, tracing fur preparation, forming, sizing, dyeing, stiffening, finishing, trimming, packing, and factory layout for soft and stiff hats. A rare window into early industrial hatmaking at large scale, including machinery, workflow and operations.